In conversation with

IDA HEINMERT, Head of Product

Meet Ida, our Head of Product. Behind every Gray Label piece is a process guided by care, precision and responsibility. From the first fitting to the final garment, Ida guides each piece with a close eye for quality, comfort and consistency.

For our 15 year anniversary we asked Ida to share more about the thoughtful details behind our designs. The choices, challenges and considered decisions that shape every Gray Label piece.

What makes designing for Gray Label different from other brands?

"We don't design trends, we design essentials. Everything has to be perfect in terms of comfort, fit and quality. Because it appears so minimal, every single detail must be exactly right.”

What makes a product truly well designed?

"When it is beautiful in its simplicity and remains in great condition. Even after frequent wear and washing and noticing how comfortable it truly feels. True quality also means responsibility; that's why we use GOTS-certified organic cotton. Ensuring it not only feels comfortable but is made with total transparency"

The biggest challenge in production?

"Consistency. Making sure that quality, colour and fit are the same every time, both in larger bulk productions and in smaller reorders. This matters for the end customer, but also for our wholesale partners. At the same time, we deal with costs that are constantly changing, such as cotton prices, energy, transport and factory wages."

What does a typical workday look like?

"No day is ever quite the same. It can move from working on new styles and fittings to aligning with suppliers on quality, planning, pricing and production. Unexpected things come up in production quite often, so you need to be able to shift quickly while keeping focus on the right priorities. At the same time, it is also about improving the small things, step by step. And of course, there is always a good lunch involved with colleagues in our beautiful courtyard during summer."

What has been your favourite collection in the 15 years of Gray Label so far?

“Not one specific collection, but rather how the whole has become stronger and more consistent over the years. A personal highlight was the introduction of merino wool in AW22, when my daughter modelled for us. I found those images incredibly beautiful.”

What do you look for when choosing colours for a new season?

"They need to feel calm and timeless, and work beautifully together. Our essential colours form the foundation and return season after season. In addition, we choose one or two new colours each season. These connect with the existing palette, but can also feel a little more of the moment. This creates a fresh and renewed image each time, while still feeling very recognisably Gray Label."

What is GOTS, actually?

“GOTS stands for Global Organic Textile Standard. It is a certification for organic cotton that monitors the entire production chain, from fibre to finished product. So it is not only about using organic cotton, but also about how fabrics are processed, which chemicals are used and under what working conditions the product is made.”

How have the designs changed over the years, and what has stayed the same?

"The foundation has stayed the same: timeless and calm. The materials are still just as beautiful and soft. What has changed is the fit. As the overall fashion image has become slightly more oversized, we also reviewed and improved our essential fits after ten years, so they connect better with the seasonal styles, which often have a slightly looser shape."

Where does a new product usually begin: with an idea, a material or a need?

"Most often, it begins with a need. What is still missing, or what could be better? From there, we look at how this can be translated into a product or a new design. Sometimes the material plays a role too, but the starting point is almost always something we feel is needed within our collection."

What have you seen evolve the most over the past 15 years?

“The quality and the level of finishing. Also, how consciously we handle materials and production. Our partnerships with suppliers really have matured in that regard. We visit them regularly in Portugal and Turkey and have come to know each other well through years of collaboration. Besides that, we work with a small, dedicated team where everyone plays a part and takes responsibility. You can feel that in everything we do.”

What do you hope children feel when they wear Gray Label?

"Comfort. That they can move freely and feel good and confident in what they are wearing. And now that we also have a few more branded items, I hope they simply find it really cool and fun to wear Gray Label."